AW22 方形剪裁
AW22 — 方形剪裁
古老的阿美族服飾是由家人製作的，以方形剪裁的方式，最大使用每一部分的布料（布料是織布或交易而來的，十分珍貴）。
方形剪裁的形制，簡單而中性，適合不同身材的每個人。
這一季，我們以大方塊的亞麻編織，在包袋與織品裡，長出安靜的幾何結構。最滿足的，是用了幾乎每一塊材料，把邊角料降到最低。
希望這些簡約的幾何物件，可以像古老的服飾，適合每個人、每個時空。
About a year ago, we started to study the ordinary costumes of the Pangcah tribes in the old days.
The costumes are called "losid", handmade at home, and each piece will be worn for a long time.
Because each fabric is handwoven or carefully traded, the clothes, pants, and skirts are all rectangular one-piece cuts to make the most use of materials.
The rectangular cut makes the costume forms minimal, neutral, and fits each individual.
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“Objects and philosophy in life are often connected, in the end.”
This season, we used rectangular bold weaves to explore the forms of bags and textiles. The rectangular units formed beautiful geometric shapes in the end and have minimum corner materials left.
We hope this collection is minimal and neutral, and fit every gender, like the costumes in the old days.
去年開始，走了好幾個部落，紀錄阿美族的古老常服。在祭典之外，日復一日，每天生活的模樣。服飾，這個滿足了功能和感性的物件，承載著太多太多的故事。想要知道織布的流轉，剪裁的心思，縫繡的意義，草木染在生活裡散發的色彩，還有每一件手製衣的心意。
我們把手邊的文獻與紀錄，一層一層整理成秋天的樣子。日光斜斜地，透過複寫紙，看著伊麥一頁一頁手畫的常服單品和訪談註記。薯榔染了一次又一次的褐色，染成常服的裁片拆解。
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AW22 的方形剪裁，是亞麻編織的新系列，也是服飾系列的前言，有新品也有展覽（還有草木染的 workshop 和最喜歡的選書，請容我們慢慢道來。）
這次的邀請卡，是伊麥手畫的常服單品，表單開放一週，邀請卡會在九月底陸續寄出。秋冬的方形剪裁系列，是季節限定的少量製作，十月初登場，憑邀請卡入場，到時候見！
AW22 方形剪裁 — Invitation
*表單已於 9/20 關閉，邀請卡預計九月底開始陸續寄出，記得留意信箱 :)
Triangle
A structural shoulder bag with a large capacity. A bold grid surface was weaved first, and then folded into the 3-dimensional triangle shape. The border between the woven straps makes the structure more shaped.
Material: 100% Linen / Double Tanned Calf
Dimensions(cm): 54 x 50
Strap Drop(cm): 13
Checkered
A minimalist flat bag with interwoven linen and leather checkered pattern, with a wide comfortable linen strap growing from the weaving bag.
Material: 100% Linen / Double Tanned Calf
Dimensions(cm): 39 x 29
Strap Drop(cm): 40
Diamond
A diamond-shaped bag structured from a square woven surface.
Material: 100% Linen / Double Tanned Calf
Dimensions(cm): 29 x 22 x 13
Strap Drop(cm): 14
Grid 75
Handwoven double-sided blankets.
Material: 100% Linen
Dimensions(cm): 145 x 75
Grid 185
Handwoven double-sided blankets.
Material: 100% Linen
Dimensions(cm): 185 x 125
Chestnuts 秋冬的栗子色
許多植鞣革的色號會以樹木名稱命名，因為植鞣革是將牛皮浸泡在樹皮、含羞草、橡果等植物萃取物的液體中，使其吸收木頭的單寧酸以成為皮革，不同樹皮的顏色差別，於是也表現在皮革的色澤上。
例如紅堅木偏向紅棕色，栗子樹偏向深棕色，來自秘魯的刺雲實灌木，則是有著類似象牙的柔和色澤。
植鞣革是大地色系的，如同每棵樹木。
:: Appendix ::
Clothing Record: By interviewing 10 pangcah tribes that have different clothing cultures but influence each other closely, we try to portray the context of pangcah clothing. From the family connections, living philosophy, to the trading and local industrial history, the cultural legacy is sparkling on the clothes cutting, fabric and beading materials, and the detailed embroideries.
A new clothing collection is planned to be introduced in our next SS23 season.
Kakita’an Ancestral House:
When building the traditional pangcah house, after the ground is raised, rattans are arranged and woven into a surface. It is called a “tatakel” and is paved in the whole interior. On the tatakel, an one square meter space will be left to fill the soil and framed with woods, it is called “Parod” where the fire can be made.
The Parod is usually on the north side of the house and has a shelf above it, so it can also be used as a baking rack. The fire below can smoke the meat, melons, and fruits. It is like a refrigerator in the house because smoked food is easier to store.
In craftsman Badagaw’s childhood impression, when elders were telling stories, they would always say that "it is very important to have a fire in the house". When we visited the kakita'an ancestral house, she finally realized why the fire is essential.
In winter, Parod also has the function of heating.
The host ina Tipos told us that during important meetings, the Parod on the south side is used by young men for meetings, and the one on the north side is used by women. Usually, there is only one Parod in a family house, the form of the kakita'an ancestral house is very special and has its significance in the tribe.
Since last winter, we visited several traditional pangcah houses in Hualien and Taitung. The location and configuration of the house, the way of using local natural materials, and the ancient objects accumulated in the house for many years accumulated slowly but thickly in our minds.
